I would like to test the AD9523 evaluation board inside of a computer case, however running the wall wart power to it is very cumbersome. 6V (or 2.2V and 4V) are not readily available in the case, but, since I'm using a standard computer power supply, 12V, 5V, and 3.3V are. Looking at the DC to DC step down converter used on the evaluation kit (http://www.analog.com/static/imported-files/data_sheets/ADP1829.pdf), it appears that the input power can be anywhere from 1V to 24V (though presumably it needs to be more than 4V for the stepdown). I was going to try plugging in the 12V supply, but wanted to make sure it won't fry my board.
It also seems that mounting the board is quite difficult. I was hoping to make a couple through holes, but wasn't sure if this was possible, particularly since it appears to be a 6 layer board with multiple power and ground planes. It looks like it may be okay to make a through hole next to the power connector, and on the large silkscreen print (around "ANALOG DEVICES") without damaging any traces, then use nylon screws to ensure nothing shorts. Would this work?
We cannot guarantee these modifications will work and there is risk that you may permanently damage the evaluation board.
You should be able to skip the switcher section all together and place 5V directly at the LDOs on page 5 of the schematic. For the 1.8V LDOs the 3.3V rail could be used.
I have attached the board file for the AD9523/PCBZ which can be opened with a free layout viewer such as Allegro Free Physical Viewer. Here you will be able to tell exactly which plane is and decide if/where you would like to drill the board. I would be careful not only to avoid traces but to make sure you do not place too much pressure on the board as you drill, which could short entire planes.
Great, thanks for the very prompt reply!
It definitely seems drilling the board is too risky, and I certainly don't want to deal with any latent failures. A colleague mentioned these:
Which inspired me to just machine a couple aluminum standoffs to do something similar.
Per your suggestion, I will look in to bypassing the switcher; if that seems to be too much of a hassle I will just find a way to use the external 6V converter.
Thanks a lot for the help!